A Traditional Essequibo Christmas

By Indrawattie Natram 

Essequibo was the first county to celebrate Christmas in Guyana. 

If one should delve into the history of Christmas and how the holiday was first observed in Guyana, one would find that according to historians, Christmas was first observed on a regular basis in Guyana when the Dutch immigrants made permanent settlements in various parts of the county of Essequibo. It was noted that the festive season was first celebrated in Essequibo in 1616, then Berbice in 1627, and in 1746 in Demerara. 

After the 1796 British occupation of these three settlements, (Essequibo, Berbice and Demerara) they became British Guiana in 1831.

At the time of unification in 1831, the largest ethnic group in the country was the Africans. A small proportion of them were free, while the overwhelming majority were slaves who provided most of the labour for the whites owned sugar, coffee, and cotton plantations. 

Christmas was a popular season during the slavery era for most of the population, though information about the Amerindians who lived for the most part in scattered communities in the hinterland is sketchy to non-existent. 

Christmas in Essequibo 

Christmas, that festival of sharing and giving, is welcomed by all the ethnic groups in Guyana. It’s that time of the year when persons far and near, including those who are pursuing their education in other regions, would venture home to celebrate the season with their families and friends. 

As the season approaches with much jubilation and celebrations, the county usually comes alive with Christmas carols: think the “Jingle bells, jingle bells, jingle all the way” song, as it plays throughout the streets via “juke box” or in shopping markets or malls. 

As the days count down, housewives can be seen grinding five finger fruits using their mills, and grating papayas to make the popular black cake to share with well wishers and families. The old women can also be seen setting their ginger beer in their buckets, which is an old tradition for the season. 

Housewives would also decorate their balconies and pathways extensively with lots of lights, ushering in the much anticipated festival. The Christmas hype and enthusiasm can be felt invading the minds of the old and young ones as they start their Christmas shopping with cheer on their faces. 

Persons could be seen in popular wholesale and retail stores shopping new suites for their homes, and at the supermarkets purchasing groceries and confectionery for the season. The stores and the supermarkets in the county are busy day and night as shoppers make the most of the shopping spree. 

Christmas is one of the loveliest festivals for children in the region, including those who reside in the riverside communities. They are often the beneficiaries of Christmas parties hosted by their schools. Children welcome the opportunity to meet for fun and camaraderie with their peers during the festival. 

Christmas parties allow the children to socialize with each other, appreciating another aspect of life other than studying. These parties are celebrated in all schools by Christians and non-Christians. Schools will have Santa Claus visits, and gift distributions, and children are given the opportunity to take photos with the popular character of the festival, “Santa Claus”. 

A typical Christmas day for Essequibians 

Christmas day begins with pepper pot for breakfast, a dish made of meat stewed in a special dark sauce. Gifts are exchanged after breakfast on Christmas day. Then there is a customary late lunch made up of baked chicken or turkey, stuffing, garlic pork, homemade pickled onions and numerous other delights. 

Desert is the famous black cake of which the main ingredients are fruit which has been soaked in wine and rum for several months. The Christmas beverage is ginger beer, mauby or sorrel drink.

Most churches display nativity scenes and conduct several programs during the day to celebrate the season. The rest of the day is spent in the living room watching a movie or two with the family, preferably “Home Alone”; or others will settle for a drive, visiting friends and sharing black cake. 

Families will also be entertained by popular masquerade bands as they dance their way through the streets. Bam Bam Sally and the Stick Man always bring cheerful smiles on many faces with their exclusive and wonderful performances. 

It is also customary that various church groups or families will host a barbecue in the evening in an effort to foster togetherness and good will. 

Christmas is always celebrated in unity and togetherness in the quiet county of Essequibo. (Taken from Guyana Times Sunday Magazine)